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Garden Gate Buyers Guide
We once had a customer ring up because their gate had started banging in the wind every night at 2 am. It drove their dog mad, woke the baby, and annoyed their neighbour. All because the hinges were wonky and the latch didn’t sit right.
The point is, gates seem simple. Until they aren’t. A badly fitted or poorly made one will let you know about it. Every. Single. Day.
This guide covers the key stuff you need to know before you buy. Sizes, styles, materials, fixings, and how not to mess up the install. Some people want privacy. Others want a bit of design flair. Either way, this breaks down what to look for and what to avoid.
We’ve been building and selling garden gates for years. We’ve seen what holds up, what gets warped in the rain, and what gets returned with swear words written on the packaging.
Let’s look at everything you need to know about garden gates.
Garden Gates Sizes Explained
Gate sizing sounds boring. It’s not. If you get it wrong, the gate won’t fit, or worse, it’ll fit, but badly. We’ve had people cut corners, trim posts, and even shave bits off the gate and still end up with a wonky mess.
We want to help you avoid all that.
Start With The Basics
Most garden darts are 3 feet wide (900mm). It's a standard size that works well for paths, down the sides of houses, and back garden entrances. The height is where things can vary.
A 3x3 gate might be fine in the front, as it's just enough to mark out your boundary without blocking your view. A 3x6 gate is better if you want privacy or you’re blocking off access around the side of your house.
If you’re after something bigger, like a driveway gate, that’s a different beast. You’ll probably want a pair of gates that open outwards, which are usually 6 to 10 feet wide in total. Just remember that bigger gates need bigger posts, but we will get to that later.
What To Measure (And How Not To Mess It Up)
You’re measuring the gap. Not the old gate. Not the panel next to it. The actual clear space between your posts or walls. Start with the width, then the height, and don’t forget to check if the ground slopes. Gates hate uneven paths. You’ll either end up shaving bits off the bottom or giving up and living with a scrape.
Leave about 20mm clearance under the gate so it doesn’t catch on the ground. If you’re fitting it yourself, give yourself room to breathe. It’s much easier to fill a small gap than cut a gate down.
When Standard Sizes Don’t Cut It
It’s pretty common to need something custom. This often happens with older houses where nothing lines up, or the posts were set slightly too narrow years ago, and no one fixed it. Don’t worry, we can help. We build gates to fit all sorts of weird spaces. You just need the right numbers, and we can help with that, too, if you’re unsure.
Types of Garden Gates (With Pros and Cons)
Now that you are looking at buying garden gates, you have probably realised theres more out there than you think. Some are solid and private. Others let light and air through. Some are purely for show, and a few are strong enough to stop a bull. Most people just want something that looks decent and works well.
Let’s have a look at the main types you want to consider, and what each one is actually good for.
Feather Edge Gates
If you’ve walked down any street in the UK, you’ve seen one of these.
Feather edge gates are made from vertical boards that overlap slightly, creating a simple, strong gate with no gaps. They match closeboard fencing, which is why most people go for them. It's an easy choice as it's sturdy, straightforward, and doesn’t draw too much attention.
They’re great for side gates or back gardens. Solid enough to give you privacy. Tough enough to take a bit of weather. If you don’t want to think too hard, this is a safe bet.
- Best for: Side paths, back gates, people who just want a solid gate that does the job.
- Avoid if: You want something fancy or decorative.
These are like the posh cousin of feather edge. The boards slot tightly together, so nothing rattles or moves. They’re heavier, they feel more expensive, and they look smarter too.
You can get them with a flat top or a rounded one. Either way, they work well if your gate is on show or near the house. Good noise blocking too, which is a bonus if you’ve got a barking dog or noisy neighbours.
- Best for: Front gates, visible areas, people who want a more finished look.
- Avoid if: You're on a tight budget or don’t want a gate that weighs as much as a small sofa.
Slatted Gates
These look great. Modern, clean, and slightly Scandinavian. Slatted gates have evenly spaced horizontal boards that let light and air through. They don’t offer total privacy, but you get a good balance between open and secure.
Use them at the front of the house or anywhere you want things to feel a bit less shut off.
They’re not flimsy, either. If they’re built properly, they’ll last as long as any solid gate.
- Best for: Front gardens, modern homes, anyone trying to keep the place looking sharp.
- Avoid if: You want a gate that completely blocks the view or sound.
Classic cottage vibes. These are the ones with evenly spaced upright boards and a curved or flat top. White paint optional. Picket gates are friendly-looking and low, usually around 3ft high, so they’re more about marking a boundary than securing it.
You won’t stop a dog jumping over it, and you’re not going to block any noise. But they look great at the front of a house or next to a picket fence.
- Best for: Front gardens, old cottages, veg patches.
- Avoid if: You want privacy, height, or actual security.
These are clever. Boards are placed on both sides of the gate with gaps between them, like an overlapping weave. You get airflow without big gaps, and it’s stronger than it looks.
They’re a smart choice if your garden is exposed to the wind. The air can pass through, so the gate doesn’t act like a sail and blow off the hinges. Solid pick for utility areas too.
- Best for: Windy spots, side entrances, functional areas that still need to look good.
- Avoid if: You want a totally solid screen with no see-through bits.
Sometimes you just want something that looks nice. Decorative gates come in all shapes. Some have arched tops, trellis inserts, lattice patterns, and some even have integrated planters. They won’t offer the same strength as a solid-framed gate, but they make up for it in charm.
Use them where people will actually see them. Front paths, side entrances, anywhere with a view from the street.
- Best for: Garden entrances, focal points, kerb appeal.
- Avoid if: You need strength or privacy over style.
Overlap Gates
Think feather edge, but horizontal and a bit more rustic. Overlap gates are made by laying horizontal boards over each other, usually with a small offset. They’re simple and strong, and they blend in with older fencing styles.They’re also a bit easier to fit if you’re doing it yourself. Less fiddly. And if you're not chasing a polished look, they just work.
- Best for: The Bin. These gate wont last long
- Avoid if: You want a modern look or a neat vertical finish.
Driveway Gates (A Quick Note)
Driveway gates come in all of the above styles. They are just bigger, heavier, and come in pairs. You can get them in feather edge, tongue and groove, slatted, or even metal (we don’t sell metal ones) if you want something heavy-duty.
They’re great for security, but only if they’re installed properly with decent posts and ground fixings. We’ve seen too many hanging off one hinge after someone skipped the bolts.
- Best for: Car access, large openings, people who want full garden access.
- Avoid if: You don’t have the space for them to swing open, or you live on a steep slope.
Timber vs Metal Gates
We briefly touched on this with the different types of gates, but this question comes up a lot. The answer is it depends on what you care about the most. This could be looks, privacy, security, budget, or all of the above.
Let's dig into the details.
Timber Gates
Wood looks good. It feels warm, fits in with fencing, and doesn’t scream that your house is a fortress. Most timber games we sell are made from pressure-treated softwood, which helps them last longer in the rain without rotting away. Still, they’ll need a bit of upkeep with a fresh coat of paint or stain every few years.
Also, depending on the style you go for, they are solid. Feather edge or tongue and groove gates give full privacy, block noise, and don’t have any gaps. You can match them to your fencing and posts so that it all looks nice.
Metal Gates
As would you expect, metal gates are stronger and harder to break through. They’re usually made with steel bars and come either primed (you’ll need to paint them) or powder-coated (painted already). Once installed, they’re basically zero maintenance, and you just need to check them for rust now and then.
They also don’t offer much privacy. It's easy for people to peek through the bars and have a nosey. However, they look sharp, especially at the front of a house. People often use these if they have an expensive car on the drive and need that extra bit of security.
Our Verdict
If you want full privacy but don't mind a bit of maintenance, go for timber. If you want long-term security, choose metal. Some people even mix it up, going for a steel frame with wood over it, which works great as well.
Accessories That Matter
After all the years of us working with gates, theres something we have learnt, and that is that most problems aren’t about the gate. They’re about the bits that hold it all together and keep it shut.
You could go ahead and buy the most expensive gate that money can buy, but if the hinges are strong enough or the latch is a pain to use, it will drive you mad. Then what about the screws? If these rust after a few months, good luck keeping your gate upright.
Let’s have a look at the bits and pieces that matter.
Hinges
This is where most people cheap out. Don’t. A great pair of hinges can make all the difference. If you pick ones that are too lightweight, the gate will start sagging before the year's over. If it's a heavy gate (such as tongue and groove), don't even think about using basic hinges. Get the proper stuff.
Locks and Latches
For side gates, long-throw locks are solid. They lock on both sides, come with keys, and don’t rust if you get the weatherproof ones. If you just want a basic latch, make sure it’s one that won’t rattle in the wind or jam in the cold. Some of the springy ones are more annoying than helpful.
Bolts, Stops, and Springs
Drop bolts stop double gates from swinging in the wind. The gate stops stop it from bashing your fence. Springs? They’re hit and miss. If you want the gate to self-close, fine, but some feel like a trampoline factory designed it.
Gate Posts
This is the bit people often forget about. They spend ages picking out the gate, and then try and whack it onto a rotting post and wonder why it's leaning three weeks later.
Gate posts do all the hard work. They carry the weight, take the strain, and keep everything square. If you buy one that's not a good fit for the gate (too thin, short, or not buried deep enough), the gate will sag or twist, no matter how well it was hung.
Garden Gate Protection and Maintenance
You don’t need to baby your gate, but if you want it to last more than two winters and not look like driftwood, it's worth doing a little bit of yearly upkeep.
Pressure Treated vs Dip Treated
Most timber gates are pressure-treated or dip-treated. Pressure-treated is better. The treatment is forced deep into the wood, so it holds up longer against rain, rot, and insects. Dip-treated is cheaper, but not quite as good. Sooner or later, you will need to paint or stain it.
When to Paint or Stain
If your gate isn’t already coated, do it as soon as it's dry and the weather's decent. Don’t paint soaking wet timber. It’ll peel like sunburn. Use a decent exterior wood paint or stain (we can recommend some), something that says it lasts more than a year and doesn’t look like gloss from a 90s skirting board.
Always remember to get right to the bottom of the fence and the top. That's where the water sneaks in and causes it to swell.
Here's our quick Upkeep Checklist
Do these, and your gate will keep swinging happily for years.
- Give it a wash once a year. Hose, sponge, nothing fancy.
- Check for wobbly screws or sagging hinges.
- Recoat paint or stain every couple of years.
- Oil any moving parts, such as hinges, latches, and bolts.
- Keep plants and soil away from the bottom.
Fitting Options
Some people love a Saturday job with a spade and a spirit level. Others would rather pay someone and not think about it again. Just be honest about what you’re good at and how patient you are.
DIY (What You’ll Need)
If you’re going it alone, you’ll want.
- A good spade or post-hole digger
- Spirit level
- A bag or two of Postcrete
- Power drill and decent screws
- Tape measure
- Brains, patience, a cuppa, and ideally a second pair of hands
If the posts are already in and leveled, you might be able to put the game up in an hour ot two. If you need to dig holes, that's sometimes a different game.
When It’s Time to Give Us a Call
If the gates are heavy, the grounds uneven, and your mates are busy, then it sounds like you might need some help from us. Bad installs are one of the biggest gate problems, and its something we see all the time.
Sometimes, it's just worth paying someone like ourselves to come out and fit it. All you have to do is put the kettle on, sit back, and before you know it, you have a nice new gate installed.
The Most Common DIY Fails
- Not digging post holes deep enough.
- Forgetting to leave clearance under the gate
- Using weak hinges on heavy gates
- Fitting it all slightly off… then trying to fix it with brute force
How Much Does a Garden Gate Cost?
Ok, let’s talk costs.
Prices do vary all the time. Other factors like size, style, and if you are paying someone to fit it for you all make a difference.
Here is a very rough guide of what you can expect to pay
- Basic gate - £40 to £80 (usually picket or overlap styles)
- Mid-range gate - £90 - £150(something like feather edge, slatted or tongue and groove)
- Driveway gates - £200 plus
Pots will add £15 to £40 each, depending on timber vs concrete. Accessories like hinges, bolts, and locks can add around £40 for a basic setup.
If you are hiring someone to fit it, expect to pay around £100 to £200, depending on the job and what's involved.
You can save money by going down the DIY route, but that's only if you have the tools and patience. Otherwise, you’ll spend the weekend swearing at a spirit level and still end up calling someone Monday morning.
9. Delivery
Not many people will be coming to pick up a Garden Gate unless they own a van. They are just too big. Our friendly drivers can deliver the fence panels to you.
Based in Northfleet, Kent, we’re ideally located to access key motorways, allowing us to deliver to locations including London, Kent, Essex and Surry. For more information please see our delivery page
Need More Help
We realise that our Garden Gate buying guide detailed but if you do have any extra questions, please contact us! Our expert team will be able to advise you on everything you need to know as you buy concrete gravel boards. you can contact us many different ways.
Phone: 01322-787312
Email: [email protected]
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